No-choice tasting menus prepared by trendsetting chefs are on the rise in Paris.
A good bet for those with an adventurous palate is Bones, recently opened by Australian chef James Henry (formerly of Spring and Au Passage), near Place Voltaire in the 11th. At 40€ – 47€ for dinner, it’s a good value.
Simplicity is key in the space (a brick-walled, former Irish pub) and seasonal is key on the menu. Original dishes include barbecued and smoked eel, foie gras in many forms, sea bass carpaccio with meyer lemon, pigeon with kale, duck heart, and gésier (gizzard).
A separate bar à manger serves oysters, veal tartare, and charcuterie maison.
The admiring crowd is young, the music loud, and reservations (made only by phone between 2 and 7 Paris time) a necessity.
Not sure if Bones is for you?
Stop in after 7pm for a glass of natural wine at the bar (no reservation necessary). If the vibe is right, ask for a plate of the chef’s handmade cheese.
You may find yourself smitten.