The more I explore Paris pastries, the more I appreciate the beauty, subtlety, and originality of Carl Marletti’s work. If you only have time for one Paris pastry chef, get yourself to rue Mouffetard, a cobbled market street in the 5th, and follow it south until it intersects rue Censier.
Because Marletti’s pastries just get better and better, I’m reprising this blog post from last year:
Haute Couture Pastries at Carl Marletti
When an acquaintance described Carl Marletti as an haute couture pâtissier, I didn’t know what he meant. But one look at the vitrine in his rue Censier shop, and the metaphor made sense.
No everyday pain au chocolat here — special occasion pastries line up like glamorous models on parallel runways, wearing pure colors and elegant cuts.
And everything glistens: almond scented Tartes aux Fruits de Saison, radiant with apricot, peach and fig; Tarte Citron à cloche, an inverted bowl of lemon cream, topped with preserved lemon and silver foil.
Paradis Latin is sensual, deep red, made from vanilla sabayon covering rich raspberries, and reminiscent of a camellia in full bloom.
There is, I learned, another fashion connection. In 2005 Carl Marlotti reinvented the classic millefeuille, using half as many pastry layers (it was called the Cinq-cents feuilles) in shapes created by French designers Agnes B, Stella Cadente and Chantal Thomass.
Have you been here? What’s your favorite pastry?