Buvette in the 9th


Looking for a cosy spot to catch up on your Paris journal, have lunch with a friend, or sample wine?

Halfway between Galeries Lafayette and Pigalle, Buvette, chef Jody Williams’ year-old Paris wine bar, is off the beaten path and worth the detour.

Mismatched silverware, an impressive marble bar, tin ceilings, antique wooden tables, a chalk map of French wine country, and walls of glass all speak of tradition.

But the take on food is decidedly modern (and not for calorie counters).

Pain perdu (French toast) and gauffres (waffles) form the base of decadent sandwiches, financiers substitute pistachios for the traditional almonds. Cappuccino is served in cornflower blue and white flowered bowls that manage to be both elegant and homey.

This is as far through the menu as I got, but the aromas, the mix of old and new, and the presence of neighborhood regulars will get me back for a tartine and a glass of wine (chosen with help from the map of French wine appelations).

Have you eaten at Buvette? Let us know what you thought!

Paris Via New York—Buvette


A new cookbook and 2 great restaurants, all from regular contributor, Betty Guernsey.

Back in 2011, one of Manhattan’s most gifted chefs, Jody Williams, opened a gastrothèque called Buvette at 42 Grove Street in the West Village, an all-day, no-reservations boîte based on the concept of a Parisian wine bar, serving accompanying delectable bite-sized plats that varied by the time of day and the season.

In an exciting non-traditional about-face, she has just brought a branch to Paris – to the 9ème arrondissement, at 28 rue Henri-Monnier in South Pigalle, where it’s fast becoming a succès fou.

At the same time, she’s written a gorgeous new cookbook, “Buvette: The Pleasures of Good Food” — like her restaurants in both cities, divided into morning, afternoon, and evening — reflecting her simple yet highly sophisticated philosophy of thinking small and using only the freshest, finest ingredients. (Book now available in bookstores and at amazon.com).

Merci, Betty!