The Best Croque-Monsieur in Paris

The croque-monsieur — a gloriously crunchy, salty ham and cheese sandwich, filled and/or topped with béchamel, and brushed with butter before grilling — is one of my favorite café/bar foods. It’s a classic comfort food, and it’s trending.

Chefs are tinkering with traditional ingredients — substituting comté cheese for the classic gruyère, and using bread from celebrated bakers and surprise additions, like truffle salt.

These three cafés have croques to savor.

• At Café Trama, near the Bon Marché, sel de truffes (truffle salt) is the transformative ingredient. The aroma is both delicate and intense, and the cheese-ham-truffle combination sings. The bread comes from artisan baker Jean-Luc Poujauran (who delivered croissants daily to President François Mitterand).The addition of a lightly dressed salad and slices of house-pickled onion turn everyday bar food into something special (pictured above).

• With blue velvet divans, brocaded stools the color of soft gold, Christofle cutlery, and arched windows overlooking the Tuilieries, pâtissier Sebastian Gaudard’s new salon de thé is a study in refinement. His croque-monsieur is equally sophisticated: three golden, crustless sandwiches contain tender white ham from the Aveyron region and creamy comté cheese from the Jura mountains. The bread comes from wunderkind baker Rodolphe Landemaine, and in place of béchamel is crème pâtissière salée, a savory custard. The sandwich is crunchy, tender, rich, and light — and the whole experience très élégant.

• For a no-frills croque-monsieur in an upbeat brasserie setting, eat at L’Entracte, in the luminous shadow of Opéra Garnier. It’s a bustling place with tufted red banquettes, lamps resembling bunches of grapes, and tall windows overlooking the stunning opera house. The clientele is a mix of tourists, locals settling into their preferred spots, and students, performers, and spectators from the Opéra. The café’s traditional ham and cheese sandwich is served on grilled Poilâne bread. This tangy, crumbly sourdough is another Paris tradition, made from stoneground flour in wood-fired brick ovens. 1, rue Auber, 9th

Where did you last enjoy a croque-monsieur?