Le Gorille Blanc in the Marais

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The ambiance at Le Gorille Blanc is old-style France, with stone walls and hand hewn beams. But the cuisine—traditional foods from southwest France—is decidedly up-to-date.

Boudin noir, the dark-hued blood sausage normally served in a casing, is pressed into generous flat discs, pan fried, and accompanied by apple confit, shaped into quenelles for a lovely presentation.

Flan d’aubergine, a lucious eggplant purrée, is tucked under fresh, steamed fish— hake or cod, depending on the day.

Tender lentils from Puy are paired with salmon fillet, and rich, pureed potatoes accompany the popular roasted duck breast with its sweet sauce.

A signature dessert is the flotignard aux pommes, halfway between a cafloutis and a flan—a rich yet light custard with baked apple and laced with calvados.

Equally surprising are the central location, just off rue St Antoine in the Marais, and midday formules of around 25 euros.