One of the pleasures of my job is revisiting a restaurant, only to learn it has grown even better with time. This was recently the case with Le Buisson Ardent, tucked into a nondescript curve of rue Jussieu, in the 5th.
On a cool, gray Friday afternoon in mid-October, we were warmly greeted, quickly divested of our coats, and presented with the specials of the day. My friend Sami started with terrine à lapin, which was not only delicious, but also a work of art.
The “millefeuille” referred to in my first course of “millefeuille d’aubergine et confite de tomates” turned out not to be pastry as I expected, but several layers of velvety eggplant and preserved tomates, drizzled with pesto and topped with 2 chorizo “chips”. I soaked up the last of it with a generous slice of baguette from artisan baker Eric Kayser.
We both ordered the same main: filet de canette, a moist duck breast perfectly cooked, and paired with a sauce of red wine and dates. A luscious sweet potato puree accompanied the duck, and the synergy of flavors was exhilarating. The wine recommended by our waiter was round and full of sunlight—the perfect complement to the day and the food.
Diners near us ordered vanilla ice cream maison paired with a dark chocolate fondant. I was greatly tempted, given my weakness for chocolate and the price (two courses for 21€ three, for 27€). But we were satiated, and lingered over espresso.
I can’t think of a way to improve on the ambiance, service, value, or food at Le Buisson Ardent. Reservations recommended.