Shopping at La Trésorerie in the 10th


You won’t find La Trésorerie on any list of Paris concept stores, but it deserves a spot.

Two luminous floors of this beautifully curated hardware store near Canal St Martin are furnished with recycled and sustainably produced home decor, furniture, and kitchenware, much of it made in France.

There are oodles of textiles, from aprons, napkins and tea towels to pillow and duvet covers; tables set with delicious dinnerware; light fixtures that satisfy both form and function; great cutlery (with a marvelous assortment of spoons); everything you need for the bath except the sink and tub.

The furniture—dining and side tables, beds and futons—is wonderfully minimalist, and outfitted with linens that make you want to touch them.

The hardware section is both useful and smart, with small gadgets that make easy to pack gifts, and brooms, brushes, and floor mats. Locals buy their eco-friendly cleaning products here.

The vibe is zen-like, and the products useful, beautiful, and respectful of the environment. La Trésorerie’s concept is harmony. And without the hype and high prices of most concept stores, the idea of tranquility extends to the register.

Best Places to Picnic with a Water View

Late summer/early fall is perfect weather for picnics in Paris. And picnics allow you to eat great food on a budget, in parts of the city you might not otherwise visit.

Oh, and great views? If goes without saying. Here are a few of my favorite spots beside water.

At night:
Pont des Arts, a footbridge overlooking the Louvre, with views of the Eiffel Tower, is a popular evening picnic spot. You’ll see couples sharing coupes de champagne, solo travelers pulling baguette sandwiches from worn backpacks, and groups sharing multi-course dinners around brightly colored tablecloths.

Looking for something a bit more low-key? Tango fans meet on the Quai St Bernard, between Sully and Austerlitz bridges.

Lovers prefer the area around the Square du Vert-Galant, the small, charming park near historic Pont Neuf.

Lunch at Port de l’Arsenal, the city’s harbor near the Bastille, will acquaint you with lovers of water craft. You can watch life aboard the many houseboats docked here, and even smell the smoke from their deck-top grills.

Film-lovers set up beside the Canal St Martin, near the Hôtel du Nord (102, Quai de Jemmapes), between the Rue de la Grange aux Belles and the Rue du Faubourg du Temple. The atmosphere is young, relaxed, and full of joie de vivre.

Les Enfants Perdus

Les Enfants Perdus, a charming restaurant near Canal St Martin, is neither elegant, nor homey; it nicely fits the gap in between.

Arriving for lunch on a cold, rainy afternoon, I was cheered by a smiling welcome, lustrous woodwork, and an immaculate, old-fashioned tile floor. The animated room boosted my spirits, too. Small, square tables were configured to seat an office group, couples, and solo diners, each, I noticed, at a different point in the meal.

I ordered a bottle of sparkling water, and inhaled the aromas of my neighbors’ dishes, looking for them on the menu.

I decided on the 18 euro, 3 course formule, starting with a vélouté de légumes given depth by slow-roasted root vegetables. Before I had finished my soup, a friend joined me; she was seated with a smile, and presented tout de suite with a menu, followed by a glass of wine. Despite her late arrival, her plat arrived with mine.

My plat was a salmon salad – a deep, oval bowl containing a generous pile of crisp, assorted greens, several warm chunks of seared salmon, and topped with salty leaves of reggiano parm. Mmmm…

The food, I discovered, tasted fresh for a reason: ingredients are delivered twice daily by local commerçants. Nothing is frozen – the restaurant’s only freezer space holds ice cream and sorbet.

After two satisfying courses, I planned to sample my dessert – but the pannecotta with mango sauce was so sweet, creamy and beautifully presented that I finished it.

I indulged in a mid-day coffee, and was glad for the strong, smooth liquid before returning to the raw, mid-winter weather. Les Enfants Perdus – excellent food, friendly service, great value – remains a warm memory of that afternoon.