Miyou at Bon Marché

The Bon Marché department store isn’t just an elegant place to shop – it’s a great place to eat. Miyou, a new restaurant run by chef Guy Martin (Le Grand Vefour), has replaced Delicabar, which I loved for its fantasy elements (including fuschia pouf chairs and single color salads).

Miyou is sleek and harmonious, and the refined food features long, engaging descriptions. I had to admit some disappointment when I realized the resto is self-serve. The queue I thought was the line to be seated was the line to pay. Running alongside it, the food lined long white shelves.
The upside of this arrangement is lower prices and less waiting than would be possible with servers – and the food is delicious.

At noon shoppers repair to orange leather banquettes and black bentwood chairs, and the air buzzes as they compare designers over fancy salads and sandwiches. I chose the quieter tea-time for my visit, substituted St Georges water from Corsica for tea (it was 90º out after all), and sampled three desserts.

The chocolate tartelette looked ordinary, but its dark chocolate filling was lighter than pudding, more substantial than mousse, intense and lingering. The buttery crust delivered a delightful crunch.

The raspberry pistachio macaroon consisted of a single raspberry cookie spread with pistachio cream, and topped with 8 fresh raspberries – beautiful to behold, and a chewy treat with fruity aromas.

The verrine was my favorite, alternating layers of cardamom and coffee flavored mascarpone in an inverted pyramid. Talk about synergy. The flavors complemented one another in a way that made me think I was tasting them for the first time.