Paris Neighborhoods—good food in the 11th


I discovered a great little corner of the 11th arrondissement—quiet despite being so near the Bastille—when I rented an apartment on rue Sedaine a few years ago. Now I enjoy going back to see what’s new.

It’s becoming a bit of a food haven. Here are 4 bonnes addresses:

Maison Arnaud, 12, rue de la Roquette, is a treasure trove of French confections: chocolate bars by Michel Claudel, calissons from Aix en Provence, candied violets from Toulouse, jams from lesser known producers, all tucked into displays lining the walls of the old fashioned, wooden space. Think of it as 360º of sweet spectacle.

• Around the corner, at 40, rue de la Roqette is La Chocolaterie d’Alain Ducasse, the famed chef’s new workshop/boutique. The chocolates were out of my price range (pieces aren’t sold individually, and the smallest box costs 35€) but where else can you buy a chocolate bar that weighs a kilo? And the people-watching is fascinating!

• I’ve written about L’Epicerie Saint-Sabin before, and it bears repeating: this new deli counter/gourmet grocery/wine cave is all about terroir, particularly in and around the Aveyron. It’s a great place to stop for a sandwich, try a new wine, or shop for gifts for food lovers back home. The duck sausage is my favorite gift (and usually it’s for me.) 13, rue Saint-Sabin.

Marché Bastille, also knows as Marché Richard Lenoir, on Bd Richard Lenoir between rues Amelot et Saint-Sabin is the focal point of the neighborhood on Sundays. Green grocers, cheese and flower vendors, bakeries and butchers are just the beginning. Nuts, spices, Middle Eastern breads, tiny shrimp from Brittany, and paella to go make this market one of the most enjoyable in Paris. Open 7am-3pm.

Do you know this neighborhood? Share a favorite address!


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